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October, 4th 2004

Milan fashion is undergoing a mood swing. Donatella Versace’s soft and gentle collection, which closed this round of preview showings, is proof that at least for next summer, Italian designers are taking their minds off sex.

Throughout the week of showings for the Spring-Summer 2005, designers have been switching their fashion flare from daring to demure, concentrating more on detail than on shape and offering light-hearted, colourful styles.

Even such sex symbols as Dolce&Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld cooled down their look.

Donatella’s Saturday night show hardly resembled the sexy glam styles, with the tight rump and plunging neckline which usually define the Versace silhouette.

Instead of micro minis, Versace offered chaste knee-length chiffon skirts with rounded hemline, paired with delicate corset tops outlined in gold piping. The staple skin tight pants were replaced by a more casual trouser and slim leather Bermudas. The summer suit is made up of cropped jacket over matching shorts.

Evening wear for the collection, which draws inspiration from the seaside, consisted of a series of floor-length mermaid gowns fashioned out of sea-theme prints, silk jersey worked to create a frothy wave effect and cascades of crystal beads.

The models with long flowing hairstyles and soft makeup walked the runway in casual flip-flops or extra-high wedged sandals.

By the designer’s own words the collection was “joyous,” which put it in sync with the general upbeat feel of this round of “moda Milanese.”

To divert their attention from raunchy thoughts, designers take to travel, pausing in India, Africa and the Far East for inspiration.

Colors, embroidery, jewellery and such styles as sari dresses, kaftans and Mandarin jackets all draw their inspiration from these faraway lands.

The dress plays a leading role in the new search for innocence. It comes most often in printed fabric, with a marked empire waistline.

To take the edge off evening wear, designers add pleats, ruffles and layers of flounces. A gown may have the new plunging backline, which dips right down to the buttocks, but the front view is more often than not dripping with body-covering beading.

By day and night dresses are paired with pretty little sweaters, shrugs or tiny jackets.

There are fewer pants in this round than in the past, with a slim Bermuda and sporty short the favourite style. Suits also come with short pants.

Rather than blouses and shirts, designers opt for simple tops, laden with beading or with a puffed sleeve for extra femininity.

Bird feathers show up everywhere, with tufts adding fluff to a fabric and to colourful peacock feathers becoming a full-fledged skirt. Birds are also the theme of many a summer chiffon print.

There is little black or white in next summer’s colour palette, and bright yellow, blue and coral replace the staple Milan grey and beige. Pastel tones of seaside shades are also popular.

In the accessory department, the latest bag is a tiny purse to clip on to a belt loop or to the handle of a matching larger bag. The summer of 2005 also marks the comeback of the hat, from turban to burlap bonnet.

Shoes are either high-heeled sandals or wedged footwear. Flats are also popular.

Girlish hairstyles and fresh makeup complete the demure feel of the season.

The only thing missing from these collections was a link between fashion and the real world known as the office.

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source: Scotsman.com
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